Great Malaysian Railway Journeys
TANJONG BUNGA
THE CORNICHE OF MALAYA

black and white photo of palm trees at Tanjong Bunga
black and white photo of palm trees at Tanjong Bunga in 1914
cover of the FMS Railways pamphlet 1914

The author of the 1914 Malaya Railway Guide recommended that travellers take a scenic drive to Tanjong Bunga (now spelt Tanjung Bungah) while in Penang. This was how he described the journey in those days:

"The incomparable beauty of the drive along the coast towards Tanjong Bunga, past the Swimming Club (six miles), must have special mention. It begins somewhat inauspiciously, for before the road starts to skirt the sea it passes through a collection of Malay houses at Bagan Jermal, which the artist's eye will call picturesque and the ordinary person will label queer but squalid. Once these are left behind (they are about at the fifth mile) there begins and there continues, along this, the Corniche of Malaya, an unrivalled succession of beautiful views. If you go along this road in the bright morning, and most mornings in Penang are bright, you will lay up in the memory for ever those sweet glimpses through the palms of the delicious blues and greens which are that summer sea. On the gold of the sand to which you look down from the red banks of the road lie splashes of black granite boulder, lapped by the waves. Gazing outwards you shall sea, a little way off, Tiny Mouse Island (Pulau Tikus Kechil) floating like a flower, with its white lighthouse for a centre. At a bend of the road a bold headland juts out bravely, tree-crowned. At another bend the coast recedes and curves to form a sweeping beach, palm-fringed, dotted with boats. Out to sea are the sepia sails of junks, and beyond them, framing all, loom in the distance the violet shadows of the Kedah hills."

fishing boats on a palm fringed beach

Tanjung Bungah has changed a lot since those days. It is a suburban area on the road to Batu Ferringhi which is the more famous area for tourists these days.

The 'corniche' today is still pretty which is why it is lined with high rise condominiums, up-market housing developments and resort hotels. It is a popular area for expats to live, being in close proximity to the city and having some international schools located here.

Penang Swimming Club members in 1907

The 'swimming club' still exists and is known as the Penang Swimming Club. The founding members of 1903 would hardly recognise the high rise multi-facility club which today occupies the site but no doubt would be proud that their legacy still survives. You can find information about this club's interesting history on their website.


As for Pulau Tikus Kechil, the lighthouse still stands as you can see from this map but the island, about 2km off the coast, is seldom visited and not that well known.

These days Tanjung Bungah is better known for the Floating Mosque.

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AUTHOR BIO

the author

David (the one on the left) is the writer behind Malaysia Traveller, sharing first-hand travel advice from over five decades of living and travelling across Asia and the Middle East. Based in Malaysia since 2009 and now in Kuching, he has published over 760 pages on this website, personally visited every place he covers, and uses only his own photos. Readers can learn more on his About Me page. He also shares updates on Facebook and YouTube. He loves uncovering overlooked places that even some Malaysians have never visited.