Great Malaysian Railway Journeys
PENANG GUIDE - THEN & NOW

view of Penang in 1914

It must have been a little easier to write a Penang Guide in 1914, when the Federated Malay States Railway Pamphlet of Information for Travellers was published. Penang was still a small place with a population of just 101,182, compared to over 1.7 million today.

Here are a few extracts (in italics) from the pamphlet:

When Captain Francis Light landed in 1786 with 100 marines, 30 lascars from India, 15 artillerymen and 5 officers on a sandy point, what is now the Esplanade, the sole inhabitants to meet him were 52 Malays. They helped to clear the forest to build a stockade which is now Fort Cornwallis. To encourage the wood cutters he fired a bag of dollars into the jungle.

The Esplanade, PenangThe Esplanade, Penang
Fort Cornwallis, The EsplanadeFort Cornwallis, The Esplanade

The body of Capt. Light lies in the old cemetery and in St.George's Church is an inscription to his memory.

Grave of Francis Light at the Protestant Cemetery, George TownGrave of Francis Light at the Protestant Cemetery, George Town
Inscription at the Francis Light Memorial at St. George's ChurchInscription at the Francis Light Memorial in the grounds of St. George's Church

Opposite the railway jetty, across the tram lines, is an imposing white building, which is the railway station. It has a high clock tower, by far the most conspicuous mark in Penang whether from the sea or the land.

Vintage Postcard of Victoria Pier and the Railway StationVictoria Pier with the Railway Station in the background (with tower). There were no trains at this station - passengers had to take the steam ferry from in front of the station to the mainland (Butterworth) to catch the train.
Former FMS Railway StationThe former FMS Railway Station building is today occupied by the Customs Department.

From this pier leads inland is a street at whose end is the fine building of the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank.

Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, PenangThis building received bomb damage during WWII and had to be demolished. It was replaced by the current HSBC building below.
HSBC Penang Branch

You can read more about the above building on my Thrifty Traveller blog.

Opposite Swettenham Pier is a clock tower presented to the town by a Chinese notable.

Vintage Postcard of Clock Tower, PenangHow the clock tower looked in 1914.
Clock Tower, George TownNot much different today.

Leaving the town hall on the right, we arrive at the handsome Supreme Court Building.

Vintage Postcard of the Supreme Court, Penang
High Court Building, George TownHigh Court Building, George Town

Continuing on we arrive at the Eastern and Oriental Hotel, admirably situated on the edge of the sea, from whose lawns, under shady trees, we see ship after ship arriving or departing, fishing-stakes lifting in the haze, and beyond them the blue hills of Kedah.

Eastern & Oriental Hotel, PenangEastern & Oriental Hotel
Elegant Interior of the E&OElegant Interior of the E&O
Pool Deck of the E&OPool Deck of the E&O
Hills of Kedah seen from George TownThe hills of Kedah seen from George Town

It is the west end of Penang which is the glory of the town. Here the roads are broad and good. At every turn are beautiful views of houses in their gardens.

West end of Penang

A turn to the left down Leith Street is worth taking, for along this street are several fine Chinese houses with exteriors decorated with a wealth of ornament in gorgeous colouring. Notable are the dragons ramping on the roofs and strange are the figures in china and pottery and the pictures in panels in outside walls.

Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, Leith StreetCheong Fatt Tze Mansion, Leith Street
Map of Penang in 1914Map of George Town in 1914

PENANG TRAMS

Penang Tram

Penang Trams describes how steam, horse-drawn and electric trams used to ply Penang's streets from the 1880s. See route maps and tram timetable here.

AYER ITAM

Ayer Itam, Penang

In 1914 the Chinese Temple at Ayer Itam was already noted as a top attraction in Penang. Since then the temple has continued to expand and enhance its beauty. See some old postcards of the temple here.

PENANG HERITAGE TRAIL

Hong Kong Bar, Penang

Find out more about George Town's fascinating heritage by following my Penang Heritage Trail with a map and full details.

PENANG HILL FUNICULAR RAILWAY

Penang Hill Funicular Railway

Until the Penang Hill Funicular Railway was built in 1920, travellers went by sedan chair.
See photos and video of the railway and the Crag Hotel back in those early days.

TANJONG BUNGA

Tanjong Bunga, Penang

The 1914 Malaya Railway Guide recommended that travellers to Penang take a scenic drive with unrivalled views to Tanjong Bunga, the Corniche of Malaya. Read details here.

TOP TEN PENANG ATTRACTIONS

Snake Temple, Penang

There is plenty to attract the tourist in Penang. Here is my list of the Top Attractions in Penang.


Next Stop: Butterworth

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AUTHOR BIO

the author

David (the one on the left) is the writer behind Malaysia Traveller, sharing first-hand travel advice from over five decades of living and travelling across Asia and the Middle East. Based in Malaysia since 2009 and now in Kuching, he has published over 760 pages on this website, personally visited every place he covers, and uses only his own photos. Readers can learn more on his About Me page. He also shares updates on Facebook and YouTube. He loves uncovering overlooked places that even some Malaysians have never visited.